Donau all on our own !!
Søndag d. 28. jan. 2018 - Lørdag d. 03. Februar 2018 (Update maj/juni 2018)
Weingartlwasser - Melk 67 km
Melk - Wallsee 68 km
Wallsee - Linz 45 km
Fødselsdag i Linz (2 Dage)
Linz - Schattenthal 73 km
Dagene langs med Donau, blev noget hårdere end vi havde regnet med. For det første havde vi ikke meget overskud og energi og for det andet havde vi fået modvind for første gang i meget lang tid.
Vejen var flad som vi havde set i nogle cykel bøger og fået fortalt af Sabrina. Så heldigvis skulle vi ikke kæmpe med nogle stejle bakker også. Men lige idag føltes det somom at kilometerne gik baglæns.
Naturen blev anderledes og nu begyndte vi at se flere bjerge/bakker, smukke ruiner og slotte som lå på bjergsiderne og flere små landsbyer kom vi igennem.
Vi havde det hele for os selv. Ikke en eneste cyklist mødte vi. Tænk sig at vi kunne havde Euro Velo6 helt for os selv, denne meget populære cyklerute som strækker sig 3653 kilometer fra Nantes i Frankrig til Constansa i Rumænien ved Sortehavet. På strækningen kommer man igennem 10 forskellige lande og cykler langs 6 af Europas floder. Derfor er den så populær og havde det været sommer, havde vi skullet være meget opmærksom på modgående cyklister. De aller fleste cykler ruten fra vest mod øst, altså modatte retning af hvad vi havde valgt.
Vi kunne kun blive eninge om at: godt nok var dette ikke højsæson, men vi fik en helt speciel oplevelse ved at være de eneste der cyklede der lige nu.
Cykelruten er så flot anlagt og til tider cyklede vi igennem de nøgne vinmarker og frugtplantager, som om nogle måneder ville begynde at blomstre på en ny sæson.
Det meste af turen cyklede vi med den brede flod ved vores side. Det var ikke an der schöne blaue donau, men mere den mørke Donau, nu hvor vejret var lidt gråt.
Hen på eftermiddagen kom vi til byen Melk og her havde Wolfgang og Sabrina sagt at der var en campingplads helt nede ved floden. Den var nok lukket, men de havde camperet der engang hvor den også var lukket, så de havde sagt at det kunne vi sikkert også.
Vi kiggede nærmer på campingstedet, men vi syntes det var for åbent og ville prøve om vi kunne finde et andet sted. Først fandt vi et sted vi kunne bruge, ned af en sti som endte blindt lige ved siden af Donau, men desværre var der en hel del mennesker der gik tur hen til enden af stien, for så at vende om og gå tilbage.
Så nu brugte vi en times tid på at cykle rundt for at finde et andet sted.
Til sidst fandt vi Melk Roklub og omme bag ved klubhuset kunne vi gemme os ved at sætte teltet op helt ind til husmuren. Så det blev stedet for natten. Næste morgen så vi at vi havde overset et ADGANG FORBUDT skilt. Men nu var det jo forsent.
Gemmestedet bagved roklubben havde været perfekt for os og når vi havde pakket sammen og var cyklet derfra, var der ingen der ville kunne se at der havde været uventet gæster.
Vi var ikke mere friske idag end igår og modvinden viste sig stadig at være en modspiller, specielt når vi kom op på dæmningen, som gik langs med Donau. Her var helt åbent landskab og ingen læ.
Da vi cyklede afsted fra Wien, havde vi regnet med at vi kunne nå til Linz på 3 cykeldage, men på grund af vinden kom det til at tage os 4 dage.
I Linz havde vi en aftale med Barbara og Andreas igennem warmshower, så dem måtte vi kontakte og meddele at vi først kom en dag senere.
Vi satte os et mål om at nå Wallsee og da vi havde cyklet de første 10 kilometer, ser vi et skilt hvorpå der stod at Wallsee lå 56 kilometer væk. Lige på det tidspunkt virkede det fuldstændingt uoverskueligt for os. Det er mærkeligt at tænke på, at nogle dage ville tanken være: Åh 56 kilometer ikke mere - piece of cake og så andre dage virker det som en umulig opgave.
Heldigvis stillnede vinden lidt af da vi nåede til byen Ybbs. Men lidt efter Ybbs, var Heidi så uheldig at springe hendes kæde. Lige som hun skulle op af en lille bakke, gav kæden efter og gik istykker.
Øv tænkte vi, ikke det vi havde brug for. Men uden kæde kom vi jo ingen steder. Hurtigt fik vi parkeret
Marianne´s cykel ind til siden og fandt vores reservedele og værktøj frem, heriblandt - et missing link, som er et eksta led til en kæde. Nu skulle det led der var gået istykker skrues af og det gjorde vi med en lille kæde deler.
Wupti, så fik vi det dårlige led af og inden vi havde set os om havde samlet kæden med det nye led.
Vi kiggede begge på hinanden og sagde næsten i munden på hinanden - det var godt nok let at lave.
Det skal her nævnes at i 2009 da vi cyklede til Nepal, prøvede vi også at springe en kæde, men der tog det omkring to timer at sætte en hel ny kæde på cyklen, da vi ikke havde det rigtige værktøj. Så den oplevelse sad nok lidt i baghovedet og lurede.
Heidi tog en prøvetur for at være sikker på at vi havde samlet kæden rigtigt og 15 minutter efter at uheldet var sket var vi atter på vej mod Wallsee.
Efter Ybbs kom et af de smukke stykker cyklesti langs med Donau. Vejen gik lige ved siden af floden og undervejs så vi en del flodpramme som banede sig vej ned eller op af floden. På den modsatte side var der en del bebyggelse, nok fordi det var sol siden. Der hvor vi cyklede var bjergskråningen lige ned til stien og på stenene vokede der mos i en smuk grøn farve. Det var ligesom en flaske hals vi skulle cykle igennem, hvor bjergene smallede ind til en lille slugt vi cyklede igennem. Vi så også små vandområder, hvor bæverenne havde været godt igang med at spise af træerne langs stien. Helt karaktaristiske var træerne gnavet over og stod med en spids stub tilbage. Vi så endda en bæver undervejs.
Da vi var kommet igennem indsnævringen, kom vi ud på et område med landbrugsmarker, mange af markerne er allerede blevet pløjet og fået gødning.
Et par små byer kom vi også igennem. Alt ser lukket ud, men igen er vi sikker på at om sommeren, vil der være masse af liv i de små hyggelige byer. I landsbyerne, var der næsten altid en lille beværtning og måske et gæsthus, men som kun har åbent i hovedsæsonen.
Vi nåede til Wallsee og havde set at der skulle være et spejderhus, hvor der stod at man kunne campere. Vi var godt klar over at chancen for at der ville være åbent, var nok meget minimal, men vi ville prøve og se om vi var heldige.
Faktisk var der et stort område foran spejerhuset som egnede sig til at campere og det så ud til der også var toiletter. Men nej, toiletterne var låst. OK, vi måtte tage et kig på spejerhuset.
Her var vi mere heldige. Godt nok var der hegn hele vejen rundt om spejder pladsen og alt så ud til at være lukket land. Men der var en havelåge, som kun var lukket med et stykke snor og en knude. Vi kiggede os omkring og 1-2-3 så var knuden løst og vi kunne skubbe cyklerne ind på området.
Først var vi et stort smil, for på to døre stod er bad og wc. Det var ind under et lille tag og dørene var ikke låst, men ak der var lukket for vandet og toiletterne var afmonteret, nok for at de ikke skulle fryse til is, hvis kong vinter kom på besøg.
Men pladsen var perfekt til overnatning. Marianne gik om foran spejer huset, for at se om der var et telefon nummer vi kunne ringe til og gøre opmærksom på at vi altså havde sat vores telt op. Men der var ingenting, så vi slog lejr uden tilladelse, som så mange gange før.
Vores største problem var: Hvor kunne vi gå på WC??? Vi ville ikke bare sætte os på grunden et eller andet sted, så faktisk blev vi nødt til at holde os. Altså nummer 1, som vi kalder at tisse kunne vi godt gøre, men først efter mørkets frembrud, hvor nr. 2 ikke var en mulighed. Vi måtte holde os til næste dag.
Jeg tror ikke jeg behøves at beskrive, hvor trængende vi var næste morgen. Det var ikke sjovt. Vi fik morgenmad og kaffe og så pakkede vi alt sammen så hurtig som muligt, for at kunne komme afsted og finde den første og bedste skov hurtigst muligt. Helidigvis var der en skov lige på den anden side af en bro ville skulle krydse som det første. Det var lige før vi cyklede direkte ind i buskene og hoppede af cyklerne og løb et godt stykke ind i skoven, så meget skulle vi på toilet. Vi må tilstå vi var meget lettet efter turen ind i skoven.
Nu kunne vi cykle videre uden der var noget der pressede på.
Vores aftale med Barbara og Andreas var først efter klokken 17 og da vi kun var 45 kilometer fra LInz, havde vi masse af tid.
Turen til Linz blev et mix af landsbyer, landbrugs områder og Donau. Slet ikke så flot som igår. Marianne syntes at der er en stemning af forår i luften, da fugelene synger og massevis af vintergækker titter frem.
Af og til kunne vi snyde modvinden, da cykelstien snoede sig i alle retninger og heldigvis ikke kun ligeud.
Vores frokost pause blev i et lille busskur, her fik vi selskab af en hyggelig lille dame, som virkede lidt som en enspænder. Hun snakkede lystigt og spørg os om hvornår den næste bus køre og om vi kunne hjælpe hende med at tælle penge op til busbilletten. Kort tid efter kom bussen og damen steg ombord, stadig små snakkende.
Disse små oplevelser undervejs giver altid et smil på læben.
Det sidste stykke ind til Linz var ikke noget særligt, men super let at finde vej. Barbara havde sendt os en vejbeskrivelse om hvor vi skulle dreje fra Euro Velo 6 for at komme hen til hvor de boede.
Klokken var kun 15, da vi var tæt på hvor de boede, så vi skulle finde på noget at lave. Marianne var blevet helt vild med vaskehallerne og ville så gerne spule cyklerne igen. Så vi fandt en tankstation med vaskehal og så fik Marianne hendes lyst styret. Bagefter gik vi på Mc Donalds cafe´ hvor vi fik en kop kaffe og noget sødt.
Som det sidste købte vi en lille gave til Andreas og Barbara. Vi havde ikke flere af vores små nøgleringe og vi ville gerne vise vores taknemlighed, så en flaske vin og lidt chokolade var hvad vi fandt på.
Barbara og Andreas boede i en stor lejlighed og for at komme op til dem måtte vi have cyklerne med i en elevator. Der var masse af plads på gangen sp vi kunne stille cyklerne der.
Det var Barbara der tog imod os, da Andreas stadig var på arbejde. Barbara var lærer og Andreas var præst.
Da vi havde pakke ud og fået et bad, sad vi og snakkede med Barbara. Men kun en time, da hun skulle afsted for at undervise i mavedans. Nu var Andreas kommet hjem og imens Barbara var afsted, sad vi og snakkede med Andreas. Det er altid spændende at høre om andres oplevelser og livs filosofi.
Andreas og Barbara havde rejst en del, hvor de havde taget orlov fra deres arbejde. De håbede på at tage orlov igen inden alt for længe, så de kunne rejse igen.
Vi fortsatte med at snakke til langt hen på aftenen inden vi trætte gik i seng. Både Andreas og Barbara skulle på arbejde næste dag, men vi kunne bare blive i lejligheden indtil senere og vi skulle ikke stå op når de stod op.
Vi havde overhovedet ikke hørt at de var stået op næste dag.
Det var faktisk sådan at vi ville blive i Linz to nætter mere og havde fundet en ferielejlighed. Det var Marianne´s fødselsdag næste dag og derfor ville vi bare slappe af og havde bare brug for at finde et sted der var ro og fred.
Så mødet med Barbara og Andreas blev et kort møde, men et meget hyggeligt møde.
På vej til Mayerhofer House, som stedet hed vi havde fundet, fik vi handlet ind.
For at komme dertil skulle vi op af en meget stejl bakke, men så var der også en flot udsigt ud over Linz og stedet lå ved en gammel jernbane sti, som var levet om til vandre sti. Ejerne var et ungt Engelsk Østrisk par, som var så søde. Vores cykler kunne vi stille i deres garage og tøjvask kunne de også klare for os.
Vi fik nævnt at Marianne havde fødselsdag og det var derfor vi gerne ville have et dejligt sted at bo for to nætter. Da vi hentede vores vasketøj, sagde damen at det skulle vi ikke betale for, det var Marianne´s fødseldags gave og fordi de syntes at vores cykeltur lød helt vild.
Marianne´s fødselsdag gik med at sove længe. Sidder over morgenmaden i lang tid, slappe af, en lille gåtur af den gamle togbane sti og skype opkald fra hendes forældre og Heidi´s forældre. Det var ikke fordi der skulle ske noget vildt. Så vi nød bare at slappe af. Vejret var gråt og keldeligt, så det passede meget godt med at vi ikke skulle sidde på cyklerne den dag.
Om aftenen havde vi downloadet en sjov film og nød et godt grin. Samme dag fik vi mail fra lufthavnen om at vi kunne komme tilbage på arbejde på samme vilkår, dog måtte Marianne påregne både at være på billetkontoret og ved check-in. Dejligt at vide, men også en smule skræmmende, at tænke arbejde igen. En mærkelig tanke efter 1,5 års frihed. Hvordan mon vi ville føle når den tid kom?????
Hun fik også massevis af søde fødselsdags hilsner på facebook. Dejligt at venner og bekendte havde taget sig tid til at sende en hilsen.
Den sidste cykeldag i Østrig, blev en flot en af slagsen. Først susede vi ned af bakken oppefra Mayerhofer House og fandt direkte ned til cykelstien, som ledte os ud af Linz.
I byen Ottensheim cyklede vi forbi et kæmpe rostadion, som var bygget lige ved siden af Donau. Alt så virkeligt prof ud. Opmålt bane og startbaner osv. Her var sikkert afholdt nogle store stævner. Da vi nåede til Aschach var vi forbi Billa for at handle ind og satte os ved nogle bord og bænke lige ned til Donau for at nyde vores frokost i 4 graders varme.
Efter Aschach blev turen virkelig smuk ligesom den anden dag. Bjerge på begge sider og den brede floden løber stille og roligt igennem landskabet. Bjergsider fyldt med grantræer og sten bevokset med smukt grønt mos. Vejen er smal, så lige en bil kan køre her og det er nødvendigt også selvom det er en cykelsti. Der bor mennesker hist og pist og vejen er den eneste måde de kan komme til deres hjem. Jeg tror vi møder to tre biler på hele ruten den dag.
Efter mange kilometer hvor det kun havde været os og naturen, begyndte der at komme små hyggelige landsbyer igen. Vi håbede på at komme til at sove i en tæt granskov og var egentlig ikke klar over om det blev i Østrig eller i Tyskland.
Hen sidst på eftermiddagen, begyndte vi at kigge efter stedet vi ville sove. det var ikke let. Enten var der beboelse eller også var træerne på en stejl skråning og her var det ikke muligt at sætte teltet op.
Vi kom tættere og tættere på den tyske grænse og da vi ikke var klar over hvordan grænsen ville se ud, ville vi ikke for tæt derpå.
Vores lejrplads, blev bag en stor brændestabel, 50 meter fra cykelstien og 300 meter fra beboelse. Vi kunne stille teltet så brændestablen lige præcis dækkede for os. Indtil det blev mørkt, tænkte vi at vi kunne blive opdaget, men lige så snart at det var blevet mørkt var der ikke en der ville forvente at der lå nogen i telt lige der og slet ikke på denne årstid.
Vi fik os en forskrækkelse hen på aftenen, da der pludselig var en kæmpe projektør der lyste hen imod os. Det var sådan det føltes, men virkligheden var en anden. Det var en kæmpe flodpram der sejlede forbi og det var den projektør der lyste så kraftigt. Båden var kæmpe og målte mere end 50 meter. Lige så hurtigt det var blevet lyst lige så hurtigt blev det mørkt og stille efter prammen sløjt var sejlet forbi. Nu var det sengetid og imorgen skulle vi til Tyskland, som var sidste udland inden vi var tilbage i Danmark. En virklig utrolig tanke efter 1 år og 4 måneder undervejs.
English
Sunday, January 28th. 2018 - Saturday, 03 February 2018 (Updated may/june 2018)
Weingartlwasser - Milk 67 km
Milk - Wallsee 68 km
Wallsee - Linz 45 km
Birthday in Linz (2 days)
Linz - Schattenthal 73 km
The days along the Danube became somewhat harder than we had expected. Firstly, we did not have much power in our legs and energy and secondly we got a headwind for the first time in a very long time.
The road was flat as we had seen in some bike books and was told by Sabrina. Fortunately, we should not fight some steep hills as well. But today it felt like the kilometer went backwards.
Nature became different and now we began to see more mountains / hills, beautiful ruins and castles that lay on the mountainsides and we found several small villages.
We had it all to ourselves. Not a single cyclist we met. Imagine that we could have the Euro Velo6 all for ourselves, this very popular cycle route stretching 3653 kilometers from Nantes in France to Constansa in Romania by the Black Sea. On the route you will reach 10 different countries and cycle along 6 of Europe's rivers. That's why it's so popular and had it been summer, we would have had to pay close attention to opposed cyclists. Most people cycle the route from west to east, the opposite direction of what we had chosen.
We could agree on that this was not high season, but we got a very special experience by being the only ones who cycled there right now.
The cycle route is so beautifully landscaped and at times we cycled through the bare vineyards and orchards, wich in some months would start to bloom on a new season.
Most of the trip we rode with the wide river on our side. It was not that beautiful blue donau, but more the dark Danube, now that the weather was a little grey.
In the afternoon we arrived in the town of Melk and Wolfgang and Sabrina had said that there was a campsite right down to the river. It was probably closed, but they had camped there once where it was closed too, so they had said that we could the same.
We looked closer at the campsite, but we thought it was too open and would try if we could find another place. At first we found somewhere we could use, down a path that ended blindly next to the Danube, but unfortunately there were a lot of people who went to the end of the trail, to turn around and go back.
So now we spend an hour cycling around to find somewhere else.
At last we found Melk Sailing Club and behind the clubhouse we could hide ourselves by putting the tent up all the way to the house wall. So this became the place for the night. The next morning we saw that we had overlooked a DO NOT ENTER sign. But now it was to late.
The hideout behind the rowing club had been perfect for us and when we had packed the tent and left the place, nobody could see that there had been unexpected guests.
We were not more energetic today than yesterday and the wind turned out to be an opponent, especially when we got up at the dam, which went along the Danube. Here was a completely open landscape and no shelter.
As we cycled from Vienna, we had expected that we could reach Linz within 3 cycling days, but due to the wind it took us 4 days.
In Linz we had a appointment with Barbara and Andreas through warmshower, so we had to contact them and inform that we arrived a day later.
We set ourselves a goal of reaching Wallsee and when we had cycled the first 10 kilometers, we saw a sign on which it said that Wallsee was 56 kilometers away. Right at that point it seemed completely unambiguous to us. It's strange to think that some days the thought would be: Oh 56 kilometers not more - piece of cake and then on other days it seems like an impossible task.
Fortunately, the wind got less when we reached the city of Ybbs. But after Ybbs, Heidi was so unlucky to tear her chain. Just as she was going up a little hill, the chain snaped and went dead.
We thought: this is not what we need. But without a chain we did not go anywhere. Quickly we parked Marianne's bike to the side and found our spare parts and tools, including a missing link, which is an extra link to fix a chain. Now we had to atke of the bad link, wich we did with a small link remower.
Wupti, then we got the broken link off and before we realized we had assembled the chain with the new missing link.
We both looked at each other and said almost at the same time - That was easy!!.
It should be mentioned here that in 2009, when we rode to Nepal, we also tried to snap a chain, but it took about two hours to put a whole new chain on the bike because we did not have the right tool. So that experience was a bit in the back of our head.
Heidi took a test ride to make sure we had assembled the chain correctly and 15 minutes after the accident had happened we were on our way towards Wallsee again.
After Ybbs came one of the beautiful pieces of cycling along the Danube. The road went right next to the river and along the way we saw some flood prams paving their way down or up the river. On the opposite side there was some building, probably because it was the sunny since. Where we rode, the hillside was right down to the trail and on the rocks, moss grew in a beautiful green color. It was like a bottle neck we cycled through, where the mountains tumbled into a slight swell as we rode through it. We also saw small water bodies where the beaver had eaten though the trees along the trail. Quite characteristic, the trees were chewed over and was left with a sharp stump and we even saw a beaver along the way.
When we got through the narrowing, we reached an area of agricultural land, many of the fields have already been plowed and fertilized.
We also came through a few small towns. Everything looked shut down, but again, we are sure that in the summer there will be a lot of life in the small cozy towns. In the villages, there was almost always a small pub and maybe a guesthouse, but only open during the main season.
We reached Wallsee and saw that there was a scouthouse where it was possible to camp. We were well aware that the chance that it would be open was probably very minimal, but we would try and see if we were lucky.
In fact, there was a large area in front of the house that was suitable for camping and it appeared that there were also toilets. But no, the toilets were locked. Ok, we had to take a look at the scout house.
Here we were more lucky. There were fences all the way around the square and everything seemed to be closed country. But there was a hedgehog that was only closed with a piece of string and a knot. We looked around and 1-2-3 then the knot was fixed and we could push the bikes into the area.
At first we were big smiles, because on two doors stood: bathroom and toilet. It was under a small roof and the doors were not locked, but the water was closed and the toilets were dismounted so that they not would freeze to ice if King winter came to visit.
But the space was perfect for overnight stay. Marianne walked in front of the house to see if there was a phone number we could call and point out that we had set up our tent. But there was nothing so we camped without permission, like so many times before.
Our biggest problem was: where could we go to the toilet ??? We would not just sit on the ground somewhere, so we actually had to wait. Thus, number 1, which we call to pee, we could do, but only after the fall of darkness, where No. 2 was not an option. We had to wait till the next morning!!!
I do not think I need to describe how urgent we had to go to the toilet the next morning. It was not funny. We had breakfast and coffee and we packed everything as quickly as possible to get on our way and find the first and best forest as soon as possible. Luckily there was a forest just on the other side of a bridge that we had to cross at first. We nearly rode straight into the bushes and jumped off the bikes and ran a into the woods, as much we had to go to the toilet. We must confess we were very relieved after the visit into the woods.
Now we could ride on without any pressure.
Our deal with Barbara and Andreas was after 4 PM and we were only 45 kilometers from LInz, so we had plenty of time.
The trip to Linz became a mix of villages, agricultural areas and the Danube. This day was not as beautifully as yesterday. Marianne thought there was a mood of spring in the air as the birds were singing and lots of winter flowers came out from the ground.
Occasionally we could cheat the headwind as the bike path was twisted in all directions and fortunately not only straight.
Our lunch break was in a small busshed, here we got company of a nice little lady, who seemed a little like a loner. She talked happily and asked us when the next bus was going and if we could help her count the money for the bus ticket. Shortly thereafter, the bus arrived and the lady got aboard, still small talking.
These little experiences along the way always give a smile on our lips.
The last stretch into Linz was nothing special but super easy to follow. Barbara had sent us a directions on where to turn of from Euro Velo 6 to get to where they lived.
The time was only 15 when we were close to where they lived so we had to do something to kill time until 5 PM. Marianne was keen on using the carwash and would like to clean the bikes again. So we found a gas station with a carwash and then Marianne got her bright board washing our bikes. Afterwards we went to Mc Donald's cafe´ where we got a cup of coffee and something sweet.
Lastly, we bought a small gift for Andreas and Barbara. We did not have more of our little key rings and we would like to show our gratitude so a bottle of wine and a box of chocolate were what we found.
Barbara and Andreas lived in a big apartment and in order to get up to the apartment we had to take the bikes in the lift. There was plenty of space in the hallway and we could put the bikes there.
It was Barbara who welcomed us as Andreas was still at work. Barbara was a teacher and Andreas was a priest.
After we had unpacked our things and had a bath, we sat talking to Barbara. But only for an hour as she was going to teach belly dance. Now Andreas had come home and while Barbara was leaving, we sat talking to Andreas. It is always exciting to hear about other people's experiences and life's philosophy.
Andreas and Barbara had traveled a lot and they had taken leave from their work. They hoped to get a leave again before too long, so they could travel again.
We continued talking late into the evening before we tired went to bed. Both Andreas and Barbara were going to work the next day, but we could just stay in the apartment until later and we should not get up when they got up. We did not hear that they got up the next day.
In fact, we would stay in Linz for two more nights and had found a holiday apartment. It was Marianne's birthday the next day and therefore we just wanted to relax and just needed to find a place where there was peace and quiet.
So meeting up with Barbara and Andreas became a short one, but a very nice meeting.
On our way to Mayerhofer House, as the place was called we had found, we shopped food and goods.
To get there we had to climb a very steep hill, but then there was a nice view overlooking Linz and the location was by an old railway path, which had been changed to walking trail. The owners were a young English Austrien couple who were so sweet. Our bikes we could put in their garage and laundry they could also do for us.
We had told them that it was Mariannes birthday and that was why we would like a nice place to stay for two nights. When we picked up our laundry, the lady said that we should not pay, it was Marianne's birthday gift and because they thought our bike ride sounded wild and exiting.
On Marianne's birthday we sleept until 9 AM. We sat over the breakfast for a long time, relaxed, a little walk on the old train path and skyped with her parents and Heidi's parents. It was not because something wild had to happen. So we just relaxed at the apartment. The weather was gray and cold, so it was so nice that we did not have to sit on the bikes that day.
In the evening we had downloaded a funny movie and enjoyed a good laugh. On the same day, we received a mail from the airport that we could get back to work on the same terms, but Marianne had to work both at the ticket office and at the check-in. Nice to know but also a bit scary to think about work again. A strange thought after 1.5 years of freedom. How Would We Feel When It Was Time ?????
She also got lots of sweet birthday greetings on facebook. Delightful that friends and acquaintances had taken the time to send a message.
The last cycling day in Austria became a beautiful one of the kind. At first we drove down the hill above Mayerhofer House and found our way straight down to the bike path that led us out of Linz.
In the city of Ottensheim we cycled past a huge rowing stadium, built right next to the Danube. Everything looked really profound. Measured lanes with start blocks etc. Here there were certainly some major competitions going on. When we reached Aschach we went past Billa to shop and sat at some tables and benches down to the Danube to enjoy our lunch in 4 degrees "heat".
After Aschach the ride was really beautiful like the other day. Mountains on both sides and the wide river ran quietly through the countryside. Mountain sides filled with fir trees and stone guarded with beautiful green moss. The road was narrow, just enough for a car to drive here and it is necessary even if it is a bike path. There are people living along the river and the road is the only way they can get to their homes. I think we meet two three cars on the whole route that day.
After many miles where it had only been us and nature, small cozy villages began to show up again. We were hoping to sleep in a pine forest and were not really aware of whether it would be in Austria or Germany.
At the end of the afternoon, we began to look for the place we wanted to sleep. It was not easy. There was either a dwelling or the trees on a steep slope, and it was not possible to set the tent anywhere.
We came closer and closer to the German border and when we were not aware of how the border would look, we did not like to go too close to the border.
Our campsite became a hideout behind a large firepile, 50 meters from the bike path and 300 meters from some houses. We could set the tent so the fire pile just covered us. Until it got dark, we thought we could be discovered, but as soon as it had become dark, there was no one who would expect someone in the tent right there and not at this season.
We got a scare at night when suddenly there was a giant projector who was sending a bright light towards us. That's how it felt, but the reality was another. It was a huge floodpram that sailed past and it was the projector that shone so heavily. The boat was huge and measured more than 50 meters. As soon as it had become bright, it quickly became dark and quiet after the barge had sailed past us. Now it was bedtime and tomorrow we were going to Germany, which was the last country before we were back in our homecountry - Denmark after 1 year and 4 month on the road. A truly amazing thought.
Have you ever heard of ....?????
Onsdag d. 24. januar 2018 - Lørdag d. 27. januar 2018 (Update maj 2018)
Hegyeshalom - Wien 84 km
2 dage i Wien
Wien - Weingartlwasser 59 km
Hvad kan vi sige om dag 460 på vores rejse, jo dagen startede diset og kølig, men det var vi egentlig ikke så opmærksomme på, vi have 4 kilometer til en Østrigske grænse og nu ville der ikke være flere sprog problemer resten af vejen hjem. Efter mange måneder hvor vi både havde brugt tysk, engelsk, en smule russisk og en masse tegnsprog og smil, ville vi nu kunne snakke tysk og forstå hvad folk ville sige til os. Vi var på hjemmebane.og det var på en måde dejligt.
Vi glædede os til et gensyn med Østrig og Wien. Vi havde cyklet via Wien i 2009, da vi cyklede til Nepal fra Danmark. Så dette blev anden gang Heidi skulle se byen og for Marianne´s vedkommende, var det næste som at komme hjem, da hun havde boet i Wien i 3 år i hendes unge dage og siden da har været på besøg flere gange.
Nogle dage forinden havde vi haft kontakt til Wolfgang og Sabrina via Warmshower og de ville gerne have os boende nogle dage.
Inden vi kunne krydsse grænsen, blev vi tjekket af et par fyre i en stor militær lastbil. Her er ellers åbne grænser, men Østrig har nok den samme indstilling til de åbne grænser som Danmark og laver deres egen pas tjek.
Den først del af vejen fulgte vi hovedvejen, senere på cykelsti og så igen hovedvej. Vi troede ved at slå en genvej op til en vej tæt på Donau, kunne vi finde cykelstien som går langs med Donau helt ind til byen.
Men så let skulle de ikke vise sig at være. Vi nåede til Bruck an der Leitha og derfra gik alt godt indtil vi holdte meget tæt på Wiens lufthavn.
Her blev vi forvirret af at cykelstien viste ind til lufthavnen og Marianne blev noget sur. På et tidspunkt troede jeg at Heidi bare var kørt. Jeg havde lige kigget den ene vej og da jeg kiggede hen hvor Heidi lige havde været, var hun væk???. WHAT???? Hvor var hun??? Det skulle vise sig at være fordi hun holdt gemt bag nogle skilte, kun 50 meter fra hvor jeg var, men i sådan en vinkel at jeg ikke kunne se hende, men hun kunne godt se mig. Så der gik lige lidt tind inden Heidi forstod hvad der var galt og fik gjort opmærksom på hvor hun var.
Istedetfor at cykle med cykelstien ind til lufthavnen, tog vi chancen og fulgte vejen, et godt valg eftersom at 1 kilometer længere fremme fandt vi cykelstien hvorpå der stod Wien centrum.
Så godt så langt, nu var vi på rette spor og afsted det gik, af den vel anlagte cykelsti. Alt var skiltet godt, lige indtil vi kom til en bro vi skulle over og derfra cykle ned på en villavej, her stoppede skiltene???
Ups hvad vej skulle vi så??? Til vores held kom en mand gående som vi kunne spørge og han fik os ledt på rette spor, så vi kom ud på den store vej der skulle føre os til Praterstern.
På turen af hovedvejene ind imod Wien var vi blevet godt smattet til og cyklerne plus os lignede noget der var løgn. Så da vi kom forbi en tankstation med vaskehal blev vi enige om at give cyklerne en vask.
Vaskehallerne i Wien er anderledes end i DK. Her består vasken af en slange med højtryks spuler på og for 2 minutter koster det 1 euro.
Så vi tog al bagagen af cyklerne, satte dem ind i hallen, så stod Marianne klar med slangen og Heidi startede hele herligheden og så blev der spulet cykler.
Jeg tror virkelig, hvis cyklerne kunne snakke, havde de sagt tak for vasken. De trængte virkelig og de blev så fine.
Wolfgang og Sabina var først hjemme efter klokken 5, så vi havde god tid. Så efter cykelvask satte vi os ind på cafeen på tanken og drak en god kop kaffe.
Vi havde stadig 12 kilometer til Praterstern, så da klokken var 4 cyklede vi afsted de sidste kilometer. NU brugte vi GPS, så vi kom af de rigtig veje. Vi blev ført af de mindre bagveje, men stadig skulle vi være meget opmærksomme, både pga. trafikken men også fordi der køre sporvogne ru nogen gange ndt i Wien.
Heldigvis ér der cykelstier de fleste steder, men nogen gange ligge cykelstien imellem sporvogns sporet, så her skulle vi passe på ikke at blive fanget i en af rillerne fra sporgvogene.
Vi kom helskinnet frem til Praterstern og fandt sidevejen hvor Wolfgang og Sabrina boede. Fandt frem til døren hvorpå deres navne stod og ringede på døren.
Kort tid efter kom Wolfgang ud og åbnede døren og bød os velkommen. LIge fra første øjeblik gik snakken i et væk. Wolfgang og Sabrina havde selv været på en verdenstur, så de havde en masse at fortælle og der blev snakket, grinet, delt erfaringer.
Vi fortalte om hvordan vi havde oplevet jordskælvet i New Zealand og derved kom vi frem til en sætning som vi altid vil forbinde med Wolfgang og Sabrina. Da vi lå i teltet under jordskælvet, var der en skør tanke der fløj igennem hovedet på mig. jeg tænkte: Har man nogensinde hørt om nogen der er blevet opslugt af jorden under et jordskælv. Jeg var sikker på at jorden ville åbne sig og vi ville forsvinde ind i jordens indre.
Jeg kan kun sige at vi grinede meget af den historie og sætningen blev brugt flere gange de dage vi var ved dem.
Wolfgang og Sabrina skulle arbejde begge dage vi var ved dem, men det var ikke noget problem for dem, vi fik bare en nøgle, så vi kunne lukke os ud og ind af lejligheden.
Det var ikke fordi vi havde planlagt mange ting vi ville se imens vi var i Wien, men noget vi altid gerne vil se når vi har været i Wien er Hundertwasser Haus. Hundertwasser var en kunstner der forenende natur og akitektur i et. Han bygningsværker er at se flere forskellige steder i verden, men det mest berømte er nok Hundertwasser haus i Wien. Huset facade er i flere forskellige farver og der er ikke et vindue der er ens og flere steder vosker der blomster og træer på terasserne der tilhøre de mennesker der bor i huset.
Et andet kunstværk han har lavet, er facaden til Wien kunstmuseum, som ligger lige rundt om hjørnet fra Hundertwasser Haus.
Efter Hundertwasser Haus gik vi på Swedenplatz og ned langs med Donau, herfra op på Stephanplatz, hvor Stephansdom ligger. Den skulle vi også lige et smut ind i. Vi fik set Rathaus, Heldenplatz og Michealer Tor og nogle af hestene fra den Spanske rideskole. Stallene ligger lige ved rideskolen og puplikum kan kigge ind i gården, hvor staldene er.
Frokost spiste vi på en af de mange Winerwald restauranter der er i Wien. Her er en helt speciel stemning. Både turiser men ikke mindst stamkunder kommer og spiser. Jeg elsker at høre hvordan personalet snakker med stamgæsterne. Selv efter mange år bliver de stadig tiltalt med De, Dem og hr eller fru. Jo, i Wien findes en helt speciel høflighed, som er en del af deres opvækst.
Et must er også et besøg på en Aida cafe´. Den første Aida Cafe´ blev åbnet i 1913 og at træde ind i en af butikkerne er som at træde tilbage i tiden. Cafeérnes farve er en let lyserød og personalet er klædt i matchende tøj. Her hersker der den samme traditionelle stemning som på winerwald og igen vil man opleve hvordan stamkunder besøger den samme cafe´ igen og igen.
Fordi Wolfgang og Sabrina, var så søde at lade os bliver 3 nætter, tilbød vi at lave mad en af afterne. Det var da det mindste vi kunne gøre, nu hvor de havde åbnet deres hjem op for os.
Fredag aften ville Sabrina i byen, så hun ringede til en veninde, som også lige kiggede forbi. Vi fandt ud af at det sted de skulle i byen, var et sted Marianne også havde gået i byen, i den tid hun boede i Wien. Utroligt at stedet stadig fandtes.
Da vi kom til Wien havde vi ikke helt bestemt os for om vi ville cykle via Czech Republik eller om vi skulle fortsætte af Euro Velo 6, som så ville tage os langs Donau hele vejen til Passau, hvor vi kunne krydsse grænsen til Tyskland.
Vi var så heldige at Sabrina havde cyklet den strækning langs med Donau og kunne give os nogle gode tips og det endte også med at vores valg faldt på Euro Velo 6. For på den måde ville vi få en næste flad rute til et godt stykke ind i Tyskland.
Så efter dejlige dage i Wien og sammen med Sabrina og Wolfgang, var vi klar til at cykle videre lørdag morgen d. 27. januar 2018.
Selvom at Sabrina først var kommet hjem tidligt om morgenen, stod hun op for at sige farvel til os da vi var klar til at cykle. Wolfgang havde vi sagt farvel til om aftenen, da han skulle på arbejde tidligt næste dag.
Vi havde valgt at følge Donau via Euro Velo 6 hele vajen til Passau og derfra sigte nordpå op igennem Tyskland, som ville bleve det sidste land vi skulle cykle i inden vi atter satte vores fødder på dansk grund.
Euro Velo 6 går lige igennem midten af Wien, så faktisk skulle vi kun cykle 1 kilometer, inden vi var ved Donau kanalen. Her kunne vi cykle ned cykelstien, som ville føre os ud af Wien og videre mod nye steder vi ikke havde set før.
Det var et lidt grå morgen men der var god aktivitet på vejen ud af Wien. Mange motionister var undervejs på stien på racercykel, mountainbike, nogle løb andre var ude at gå en frisk tur.
Betonvæggene der er langs med stien, er fint undsmykket med grafitti. Et af malerierne kunne vi ikke stå for, da det var en rotte/mus på cykel, så her stoppede vi for at tage et billede.
Vi havde lidt modvind og luften føltes vandkold og efter de hyggelige dage ved Wolfgang og Sabrina kunne vi godt mærke at vi skulle ind i cykel modet igen. Men inden længe var vi nået ud til Wiens kæmpe varmeværk. Det står som et stor varmærke for byen. Den ellers ret så grimme og store skorsten er udsmykket af Hundertwasser og på den måde gjort til et kunstværk.
Lige inden vi kom helt ud til Donau nåede vi til Schemerlbrücke, som også er en stor sluse, så der kan reguleres på vandet der skal ind igennem Donau kanalen. NU var vi ude af Wien og nået til Klosterneuburg og herfra skulle vi følge Donau de næste godt 300 kilometer.
Nu var vi nået ud af Wien og det var et ikke fordi der var meget at se på. Floden til den ene side og af og til kom vi igennem små områder hvor der lå små huse, som mest af alt minede om kolonihavehuse.
Vores motivation var på lavt blus, så vi rullede egenligt bare stille og roligt afsted. Vi tog os god tid og vi blev enige om kigge efter et gemmested fra klokken 15.00.
I Tulln an der Donau havde vi købt vores madration til aftensmad og da vi nåede udmundingen af Traisen, fandt vi en lille sti, som førte os ind i en skov og her fandt vi en plads hvor vi kunne sætte teltet op.
Klokken var kun 4:00. Så da vi havde sat teltet op var der god tid til at tage en kop kaffe og slappe af inden vi lavede vores aftensmad.
Når vi ligger os til at sove, er det ganske normalt at vi ligger og lytter efter lyde. Denne aftenvar ikke anderledes. Men vil indrømme at vi fik os noget af et shock, da der pludselig lød et kæmpe brøl/skrig, en lyd vi aldrig havde hørt før. Det kom fra et dyr, men hvad for et dyr. Vi var klar over at der kunne være vildsvin i området, men de kunne da ikke brøle/skrige???
Vi hørte lyden et par gange mere inden vi faldt i søvn. Næste morgen prøvede vi at søge på rådyr lyde via youtube. Her fandt vi frem til at lyden vi havde hørt, var fra en råddyrs buk. Så ikke noget farligt.
English
Wednesday, January 24, 2018 - Saturday, January 27, 2018 (Update may 2018)
Hegyeshalom - Vienna 84 km
2 days in Vienna
Vienna - Weingartlwasser 59 km
What can we say about day 460 on our journey, the day started dull and cool, but we were not really aware of it as we had 4 kilometers to the Austrian border and now there would be no more language problems the rest of the way home. After many months when we had used German, English, a little Russian and a lot of sign language and smile, we would now be able to speak German and understand what people would say to us. It felt a bit like at home and it was somehow nice.
We were looking forward to a reunion with Austria and Vienna. We had cycled through Vienna in 2009 when we rode to Nepal from Denmark. So this was the second time Heidi had to see the city and for Marianne, it was nearly like coming home as she had lived in Vienna for 3 years in her young days and since then had been visiting Vienna several times.
A few days before we had contact with Wolfgang and Sabrina via Warmshower and they would like us to stay with them for a few days.
Before we could cross the border, we were checked by a pair of guys in a big military truck. There are normaly open borders, but Austria has the same attitude to the open borders like Denmark and making their own passports check.
The first part of the road we followed the main road, later on some bike path and then again the main road. We thought by hitting a shortcut to a road close to the Danube, we could find the cycle path that goes along the Danube right into the city.
But it turned out to be a bit more difficult. We reached Bruck an der Leitha and from there everything went well until we came very close to Vienna Airport.
Here we were confused that the bike path showed us to the airport and Marianne became angry. At one point, I thought Heidi just keept cycling without checking if I followed. I had just looked one way and when I looked where Heidi had just been, she was gone ??? WHAT ???? Where was she ??? It would turn out to be because she kept hidden behind some signs, only 50 meters from where I was, but at such an angle that I could not see her, but she could see me. So it took a little bit of time before Heidi understood what was wrong and I got to know where she was.
Instead of cycling the bike path to the airport, we took the chance and followed the main road, a good choice because one kilometer further ahead we found the cycle path on which we could reach the center of Vienna.
Great, now we were on the right track and followed the well-made bicycle path. Everything was well done just until we got to a bridge we were going across and then cycling down on to a smaller road, here the signs stopped?
Ups what way should we go ??? To our luck a man came walking and we could ask him for directions and he led us on the right track so we came out on the main road that would lead us to Praterstern.
On the trip on the highway towards Vienna we had cycled in some mud and rainslush and the bikes plus us looked like a lie. So when we got past a gas station with a carwash we agreed to give the bikes a wash.
The carwash in Vienna are different from DK. Here the wash hall consists of a hose with high pressure and for 2 minutes high pressure wash it costs 1 euro.
So we took all the luggage of the bikes, put them into the hall, now Marianne was ready with the hose and Heidi started all the glory and then bicycles were highpressure washed..
I really think if the bikers could talk, they had said: Thank you for the wash. They really needed it and they were so fine after that wash.
Wolfgang and Sabina were at home after 5 o'clock so we had enough time. Then after the bikes was washed we sat down at the cafe at the gasstation and drank a good cup of coffee.Wolfgang and Sabina were at home after 5 o'clock so we had a enough time. Then after cycling we sat down at the cafe on the tank and drank a good cup of coffee.
We still had 12 kilometers to Praterstern, so at 4 o'clock we rode the last kilometer. NOW, we used GPS so we got off the right roads. We were led by the smaller back roads, but still we should be very aware, both because of the traffic but also because trams run roughly through Vienna.
Fortunately, there are bicycle paths in most places, but sometimes the cycle path runs between the tramway track, so here we should take care not to be caught in one of the grooves from the tracks.
We came across the Praterstern and found the road where Wolfgang and Sabrina lived. Found the door on which their names stood and rang the bell..
Shortly thereafter Wolfgang came out and opened for us and welcomed us. From the very first moment, the talk went on. Wolfgang and Sabrina had been on a world tour aswell, so they had a lot to tell and we talked, shared stories and experiences.
We talked about how we had experienced the earthquake in New Zealand and thus we came up with a sentence that we always want to connect with Wolfgang and Sabrina. When we lay in the tent under the earthquake there was a crazy thought that flew through my head and it was like this: Have you ever heard of someone who has been absorbed by the earth during an earthquake. I was sure the earth would open and we would disappear into the interior of the earth.
I can only say that we laughed a lot of that story and the sentence was used several times the days we were at Wolfgang and Sabrina.
Wolfgang and Sabrina had to work both days we were at their house, but it was no problem for them, we just got a key so we could close ourselves in and out of the apartment.
It was not because we had planned many things we wanted to see while we were in Vienna, but something we always want to see when we have been in Vienna is Hundertwasser Haus. Hundertwasser was an artist whose unifying nature and architecture in one. His buildings are to see several different places in the world, but the most famous is probably Hundertwasser Haus in Vienna. The house facade is in several different colors and there is no window that is the same and in many places there are flowers and trees on the terraces belonging to the people who live in the house.
Another piece of art he has made is the facade of the Vienna Art Museum, which is just around the corner from the Hundertwasser Haus.
After Hundertwasser Haus we went to Swedenplatz and down the Danube, from here on Stephanplatz, where Stephansdom is located. We also went inside. We saw Rathaus, Heldenplatz and Michealer Tor and some of the horses from the Spanish riding school. The stables are located near the riding school and the puplic can look into the yard where the barns are located.
We ate lunch at one of the many Winerwald restaurants in Vienna. Here is a very special atmosphere. Both tourists and, not least, regular customers come and eat. I love hearing how the staff talks with regulars. Even after many years they are still greeted with a polite you and Mr or mrs this and that. Well, here in Vienna there is a very special courtesy that is part of their growing up.
A must is also a visit to an Aida cafe. The first Aida Cafe was opened in 1913 and stepping into one of the stores is like stepping back in time. The color of the cafes is a light pink and the staff are dressed in matching clothes. Here, there is the same traditional mood as at the Winerwald, and again you will discover how regular customers visit the same cafe again and again.
Because Wolfgang and Sabrina were so sweet to let us stay for 3 nights, we offered to cook dinner one of days. That's the least we could do now that they had opened their home for us.
Friday night, Sabrina wanted to go to town, so she called a friend who also came over. We found out that the place they were going to was somewhere Marianne had also gone to party during the time she lived in Vienna. Amazing that the place still existed.
When we arrived in Vienna, we were not sure whether we would cycle through the Czech Republic or if we were to continue by Euro Velo 6, which would then take us along the Danube all the way to Passau, where we could cross the border to Germany.
We were lucky that Sabrina had cycled the stretch along the Danube and could give us some good tips and it also ended that our choice fell on Euro Velo 6. In that way we would get a almost flat route all the way and a bit into Germany as well.
Then after lovely days in Vienna and together with Sabrina and Wolfgang, we were ready to ride on. It was 27th jan. 2018 and we still had a little more than a month to reach Denmark.
Even though Sabrina had come home early in the morning, she was ready to say goodbye to us when we were ready to set of for a bit more adventure along the Danube. We had said goodbye to Wolfgang in the evening, as he had to get up early the next morning to go to work.
We had chosen to follow the Danube via Euro Velo 6 all the way to Passau and from there we traveled north through Germany, which would be the last country we were to ride before we sat our feet on Danish soil.
The Euro Velo 6 runs right through the center of Vienna, so we should only ride 1 kilometer before we were at the Danube canal. Here we could cycle anlong the cycle path, which would lead us out of Vienna and on to new places we had not seen before.
It was a little gray morning but there was some activity on the way out of Vienna. Many exerciseists were on the way on the trail on a racing bike, mountain bike, some runners others were out for a fresh walk.
The concrete walls that are along the path are decorated with graffiti. One of the paintings we liked a lot because it was a rat / mouse on a bike, so we stopped to take a picture.
We had a little headwinds and the air felt water cold and after the nice days at Wolfgang and Sabrina we could feel that we had to find the bike mode again. But soon we had reached Vienna's giant power plant station It stands as a big mark for the city. The otherwise ugly and big chimney is adorned by Hundertwasser and thus made a work of art.
Just before we reached the Danube, we reached Schemerlbrücke, which is also a big lock dam, so that the water can be regulated entering the Danube canal. Now we were out of Vienna and reached Klosterneuburg and from here we should follow the Danube for the next 300 kilometers.
Now outside of Vienna there was not much to look at. The river on one side and occasionally we came through small areas where there were small houses, most of which reminded of small summer cabins.
Our motivation was at low, so we just rolled off quietly. We took our time and we agreed to look for a hideaway from 3pm.
In Tulln an der Donau we had bought our food for dinner and when we reached the mouth of Traisen we found a small trail that led us into a forest and here we found a space where we could put the tent.
The time was only 4:00. So when we had set up the tent, there was plenty of time to have a cup of coffee and relax before we made our dinner.
When we lie to sleep, it is quite normal that we lie and listen for sounds. This evening was no different. But we admit that we got some shock, as suddenly a huge roar / scream sounded, a sound we had never heard before. It came from an animal, but what an animal. We were aware that there could be wild boar in the area, but they could not shout / scream ???
We heard the sound a couple of times more before falling asleep. The next morning we tried to search for animal sounds via youtube. Here we found out that the sound we had heard was from a male dear. So nothing dangerous.
